BMW of North America, LLC (BMW) is recalling certain 2006-2011 323i, 325i, 325xi, 328i, 328xi, 330i, 330xi, 335i, 335xi and M3, 2007-2011 328i xDrive, 335i xDrive and 335is and 2009-2011 335d vehicles. The wiring and electrical connectors for the system that...
Electrical system
BMW 335I Electrical problems by year
28 complaints filed with NHTSA about the BMW 335I's electrical system. Dead batteries, warning lights, wiring, alternators, infotainment and electronic module failures.
Electrical complaints by model year
Electrical recalls
BMW is recalling certain model year 2008-2012 1-Series coupes and convertibles manufactured December 2007 through September 2011; and 2007-2011 3-Series coupes and convertibles manufactured March 2007 through October 2011; 2007-2011 3-Series sedans...
Latest 335I electrical complaints
My vehicle has a defect with electric water pump, shorted by its factory connector due to unprotected electrical plug on water pump. BMW issued a recall to cover the defect but refusing to pay for repairs performed. Recall 24V-608 water pump electrical connector. Recall information includes same parts with defects which includes mine, exactly same part and same procedure for repairs. 2013 BMW 335i Drive, F30 (3 series sedan) This company must be held responsible for the repairs, can't cover half of the models then leave other half for the expense of owners. Same parts used and same procedures to address the defects, why is not my vehicle not included in this recall ???
The water pump runs all of the time and drains the battery completely overnight. The water pump runs even after the car is shut off. It seems like the water pump is shorted. The water pump connector appears to have the same issue as many other recalled BMWs but for some reason my VIN has not been included in the recall. The photo is of the stream of coolant being pumped by the water pump while the car is turned off. I cannot drive the car. It is sitting with the battery disconnected. I have called the dealer and they said my car is not part of the recall, but it should be.
The car died without warning on highway. Lost control because of no power. Car was towed. no codes found. Car died again on highway, lost control no power to brakes and steering. Car was hit trying to got off into breakdown lane. High pressure fuel pump no good.
The contact owns a 2013 BMW 335i. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the check engine warning light illuminated. The contact stated that the following day, while attempting to start the vehicle, the vehicle failed to start. The contact stated that after several attempts, the vehicle started. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, where it was diagnosed with battery failure. The contact was informed that the battery needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired; however, the...
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failure reoccurred. The vehicle was taken back to the independent mechanic, and the battery was replaced for the second time. The vehicle was repaired; however, the failure reoccurred. The vehicle was taken back to the independent mechanic and the battery was replaced a third time, but the failure reoccurred. The vehicle was taken back to the independent mechanic, where it was diagnosed with coolant pump failure. The contact was informed that the coolant pump had an electrical shortage and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The dealer was not made aware of the failure. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The contact referenced NHTSA Campaign Number: 24V608000 (Engine and Engine Cooling, Electrical System); however, the VIN was not associated with the recall. The failure mileage was approximately 140,000.
I haven't even had my bmw 335i 2013 with 84000 miles on it yet for more than 8 months but somehow for some reason my electronic power steering rack has gone out twice in the span of 5 months.this is a issue. Everytime I'm getting on or off on ramps and taking the turns and curves at 35-40 mph then when you go to let your wheel slide through your hands so you can continue going straight is supposed to be smooth and effortless I shouldn't have to worry about my life everytime I drive a car because the [[redacted]]...
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wheel wants to snap back to the center angle at Mach 7 speed. The steering wheel feels loose when I'm driving straight and is heavy when I turn. Even going over bumps it will just start to pull to that side the bump was on its hard to even switch lanes cause I have to fight with my steering wheel. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)
After the car is shut off, the coolant pump will stop with the car but after a min the car will stay off but the coolant pump will kick on. Runs until battery is drained. I do understand there is a feature to circulate the coolant so help mitigate burn/hot spots but this continues until the battery is disconnected by ECU. Then it won't start because the battery is too low. Ongoing issue for the past 2 years now, happens intermittently. Frequency is random but happens more when it's cold out. But average happens...
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a few times a week when cold out, sometimes it runs well for a few weeks then starts happening again. We had tried to troubleshoot by BMW but no luck. They have replaced battery, alternator, have tried to diagnose about 4 times now but they haven't fixed it since they can't replicate at the BMW Shop. I can hear the coolant pump running as well as feel the water moving. Also tested by Fluke Meter, it drains at about 40 amps (at 12 volts) when this happens, with the car off. Doing anything (opening doors, trunks, locking, unlocking, stops it for a minute but then pump starts again). No errors pop up for it except when the battery is low and then error battery had high discharge pops up.
There is TSB by BMW where they know there is an issue with there Fan.. according to them the fan is a 650w fan which causes a condition where the transmission gets a code. The car all of a sudden gets a dramatic power loss with no warning or check engine light.. i almost got into an accident when my car with no warning lost power... I called bmw of America and they are telling me I'm responsible to bring in the car and pay for the repair
The contact owns a 2015 BMW 335I. The contact stated while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle inadvertently lost motive power. The driver was able to pull to the shoulder of the roadway, where the vehicle was able to be jumpstarted. The battery discharge warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, who diagnosed a failure with the water pump and determined that a short in the water pump was preventing the water pump from turning off. The vehicle was not repaired. After investigating...
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the failure, the contact related the failure to NHTSA Campaign Number: 24V608000 (Engine and Engine Cooling, Electrical System); but the VIN was not included. The manufacturer was notified of the failure but provided no assistance. The failure mileage was 88,000.
A/C COOLING INTERMITTENT REDUCTION OF AIR FLOW: Complaint of reduced air flow when the air conditioning system is operated for an extended time, usually longer than 30 minutes. The evaporator starts to freeze up. Here is a blog from multiple owners reporting the same issue. https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21904
Loss of power/won't Rev over 2500rpms No fault codes displayed on dash Radiator fan goes to max and cuts off consistently every 30sec-45sec Very dangerous situation when pulling out in front of traffic. I've only owned this car for 3 months! I need to get this fixed asap. Also, this problem occurs at random times in all different conditions. It will also "reset" after turning car off and restarting. It has happened to me 7 - 8 times in 3 months!
1 Day I drove the car all the door lockes except for the rear left stoped working and I got stuck in the car for 30 minutes then the door unlocked and then stoped working car doors have to be opens with the key hole or from inside the car major death hazard.All happened in one day in a parking garage
There is a failure in the door actuators that when happens prevents the door from being opened using the internal door lever and in some cases also affects the external handle. Not being able to open the door by pulling the internal or external levers may cause a safety issue in case of emergency (crash, flood, fire). Bmw is aware of this issue because lots of 3 series cars have failed and they have been repairing or replacing the defective parts in cars under warranty, but refuses to cover the expenses out of...
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warranty period. Bmw na must take care of this problem despite the warranty period since it's a safety issue. Here is a video of the problem: https://www.Youtube.Com/watch?V=v7_ubsgjtqq
I loved my bmw until I realized it has a faulty engine. I noticed the drive train malfunction light once when I went through a car wash. I turned off when I restarted the car. My car was up to date on all oil changes etc, I take it to bmw specialist only. I noticed a light tick sound and reported it to bmw at my last oil change. They disregarded it and said they did notice oil on the gasket. No changes requested at that time. My car never showed signs of leaking oil and the oil pressure at times showed to be low...
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but would always return to normal. I was told it was because the hybrids work differently. On my way home on the frontage road of i35 my car just shut down and never restarted. I was able to guide it into a parking lot and the engine just stopped turning and the drive train malfunction light turned on. I had it towed to a mechanic and they basically said they had to replace the entire engine. A new engine cost $18000 and a used is around 13000. That does not include labor!!! I had to then have my car towed home to just park it. This is the only car I have, I owe thousands on it and the engine completely broke! As I'm doing research I see multiple complaints with the same issues and same result, complete engine failure!!! This needs to be investigated! From what I gather it is related to the drivetrain malfunction light sending a signal to the engine & stopping oil from reaching the top of the motor, leading to vanos complications and leading to metal in the engine leading to a complete damage to the engine. Cheap issue leading to failure of the entire vehicle. I've also gathered there is a fault with the start/stop that causes this issue. I am left with no car, I'm a full time nurse and now in debt with no working car! This could have been prevented had a recall been done a few years ago with all the initial complaints!! Several forums including on this site!!
Every time I go from i93 mass to i90 hwy on the exit my car shuts off for 3sec and restarts the electronics. Not sure what defect or sensors are in the area that causes this malfunction. But this only happens when I take the same exact exit every single time.
I have had two door lock actuators fail in my car. At best, this presents as a case where the door lock is physically slow to lock/unlock, or at worst, the passenger cannot open the door from inside. This could present a safety or other adverse situation when the passenger needs to exit the vehicle. This is a known failure point in the at least bmw f30 3 series models, as the web forums are littered with people experiencing similar issues. Bmw should recall these failed actuators. This is unacceptable in vehicles between 3-7 years old.
Source: U.S. National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) complaints and recalls, checked daily. Complaints are owners' own reports and are not verified. How we use the data