Dodge Caliber Acceleration problems by year

Vehicle tipm shut off transmission while driving an cause a traffic jam on a busy intersection caused the transmission system to go in limp mode an no breaks. Was very dangerous lucky I had a hand break that worked cause engine to shut off an studder had to get towed an transported the vehicle home an got it inspected by a mobile mechanic an says the fuse box had blown internal components due to failing internal electrical components or weak points in the tipm system

The contact owns a 2007 Dodge Caliber. The contact received notification of NHTSA Campaign Number: 10V234000 (Vehicle Speed Control) however, the part to do the recall repair was not yet available. The local dealer was contacted. The contact stated that the manufacturer had exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. Parts distribution disconnect.

I've only had the car since Aug. Im the second owner, it drove just fine. Then I got an oil change. Then the car began to rev down hill and struggled to make it uphill. Then my exhaust became excessively loud. Then the wheel became loose ,and started pulling ALOT. I was on my way to get an alignment this morning and the whole front end began to buckle not even a minute down the road. I tmade it in back the driveway before the front end collapsed completely

My car was slow to accelerate, and sounded like the engine was over-revving. The engine stalled several times, and the car itself was shaking, while driving at a moderate speed level, which I feared would have caused an accident, because it was sudden. The service warning light appeared. I had the manifold replaced by one mechanic, but the problem occurred again. I got a second opinion, that determined it was the throttle body assembly, which was replaced. That was three years ago. Now, the same issue has cropped up again. The cost was exorbitant, and is something I can't afford every few years.

My throttle body keeps going in and out which cause me to have to get an alternator replaced twice plus a crankshaft twice. Now my car is smoking which is the valve cover gasket . Also my car lights went out one at a time so my driver side lights wnt work at all in the front and the passenger side front won't work just my signal on the passenger side. Also my dashboard won't work properly it keeps goin on and off as I turn on other lights in my car . When I signal left my car light on the roof comes on. I spent $12000 on this car from a dealership and have done nothing but put money into it more than I paid for it.

Car slowed down and electronic throttle control light and traction control light came on was dangerously slow to accelerate and would not maintain speed

When the vehicle reaches 3,000 RPMs the temperature light comes on and the vehicle seems like it wants to go into neutral The engine light comes on the antilock brake system light comes on.

Car jerks extremely bad when on accelerator. Doesn't do it all the time. Just when it wants to. Left me stuck in the middle of a main highway while trying to pull out into traffic. Looked up the cause and I believe it to be the electronic throttle control.

For the last two weeks I have been losing throttle control. I have replaced both electronic throttle bodies. Nothing is helping. This vehicle is unsafe to drive because yoy never know when it is going to shut down on you. It could be at a red light or going 65 on the highway. This needs to be a recall

My son drove my car one night and he said he didn't like the steering because it act like ilose and tires about to fall off I told him I know cause it was eating up the out side of tires fast to wear wires were seen on both sides of the front tires and later eveny son had a wreck and total out car on the seen where the wreck happen it didn't make sense to me and my son didn't have his seat beat on and it threw h out and I believe iif he did it would of killed him he don't remember nothing cause I think it put him...

My abs not working. And I change already speed sensor - its doesn't help. And cruise control doesn't work to. What I need to do?

I recently purchased the vehicle from the original owner. The vehicle light flashes while driving. The mileage is currently 91k miles. Now the lightening bolt symbol will not turn off and the vehicle will not accelerate over 39 miles. I have not been able to drive the vehicle for over a week.

I recently brought a used vehicle, when I took it for a test drive everything ran smoothly and things were working just fine, no problems. I drove the car home and when I got out the vehicle and tried to use the keypad to lock the doors, it didn't work and actually started the car than the alarm went off. I had to start the engine and shut it back off and manually go and lock all doors because I also noticed the lock door button on the door did not work but the window buttons does. I immediately called them and...

Started vehicle which had been running perfectly fine, just got a oil change a few days prior. Started driving and the car starts sputtering like it was going to die. The etc symbol started to flash and car would only go 5-10 mph when this happened I was already driving at 40mph when the car just started to slow down to the 5 miles and sputter.

Feels like the car is going to hit a corner or bump and the whole front and tires are gonna come off. Also the gas cap light keeps coming on followed by the engine light. For some reason my gas cap keeps opening itself like there is air or pressure literally unscrewing it. The gas cap happens when parked